Discover the timeless charm of Derwentwater with this classic circular walk through lakeside paths and ancient woodlands. Starting near the Borrowdale Valley and winding through the vibrant town of Keswick, this route showcases stunning, low-level views of Cat Bells and Walla Crag. Featuring flat, accessible pathways mixed with quiet scenic stretches, it offers a wonderful balance of peaceful nature and local Cumbrian life. It stands as the perfect lakeside adventure for families, dog walkers, and anyone seeking a refreshing, memorable day out in the heart of the Lake District National Park.

Walk information

• Distance: 15km
• Duration: 4h
• Ascent: +66m
• Level: Medium due to distance
• Car Park: National Trust Great Wood car park, Borrowdale Rd, Keswick (CA12 5UP) Grid ref. NY 272 214
• Child friendly: Certain sections on the road; otherwise most of the time it is pushchair friendly
• Dog friendly: Yes, no stiles but a section on the road with a narrow pavement.
• Terrain & Safety Notes: Footpath along Derwent Water shore and roads. Be careful the path can be flooded.

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Our adventure

At the end of August, Matt and I decided to go for a long walk while Marcus was at nursery. We opted for the full circular walk around Derwentwater, a route we hadn’t done in years. In fact, it was actually one of the very first walks we did back in 2018 when we first moved to West Cumbria. It was wonderful to see how much the paths have been improved over the years.

We parked at Great Wood car park and headed off in the direction of the Borrowdale Valley. We timed it this way so we could finish the main stretch in Keswick village just in time for lunch. Skye was incredibly excited at the beginning, though he grew a bit less enthusiastic toward the end and had definitely had his fill of walking by the time we reached town! The weather stayed perfectly dry and the clear skies allowed us to fully take in the beautiful scenery. Since it was a weekday, the paths were peaceful and quiet, though Keswick itself was bustling because it was market day.

We took our time walking around the lake, chatting and enjoying the views while Skye happily sniffed every single blade of grass. The southern and western edges of the lake up to Portinscale remain my absolute favourites, especially the stunning view over Derwentwater from Great Bay. The opposite side still offers beautiful views of Cat Bells, Maiden Moor, and High Spy, though the proximity to the road can be a little distracting. Along the way, we watched the ferry arriving and departing from Victoria Bay, which made us think it would be lovely to plan a future trip combining a ferry ride with a walk.

When we arrived in Portinscale, we debated whether to stop there for lunch, as we always enjoy the Lingholm Kitchen, or press on to Keswick. We settled on the latter, as I was a bit worried I wouldn’t have the energy to walk all the way back to Great Wood car park if I sat down for lunch too early.

The market was in full swing by the time we reached Keswick. After a short stroll to pick up some pastéis de nata, which has become a little tradition of mine whenever we go to Keswick during market day, we headed over to The Pocket Café Bar for lunch. Their pizzas are delicious, and we noticed they’ve added a great selection of homemade cocktails to the menu since our last visit. We shared a couple of pizzas, and Matt enjoyed some Belgian beers while I had a cocktail.

The final leg of the walk back to the car gave us just enough time to digest lunch, leaving us pleasantly refreshed rather than completely exhausted. It was so lovely to revisit a walk from our early days here, and a rare treat to enjoy a long, uninterrupted hike without a toddler in tow.

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Extend Your Adventure: Make a Holiday of It

For those looking to extend their stay and plan a longer adventure in this area of the Lake District National Park, I’ve shared our favourite family and dog-friendly restaurants and spots that are well worth a visit.

Where to eat:

• The pocket cafe bar, Keswick: Grab homemade pizzas, craft cocktails, and an impressive selection of Belgian and German beers in a lively atmosphere. Dog friendly
• Java Cafe, Keswick: Warm up with their famous, decadent hot chocolates and a fantastic selection of freshly baked cakes. Dog friendly outside seating only
• Lake Road Brunch, Keswick: Fuel your morning with vibrant, modern brunch classics right in the heart of town. Dog friendly
• Lingholm Kitchen, Portinscale: Dine in the stunning walled garden that inspired Beatrix Potter, just steps from the shores of Derwentwater. Their home bread is absolutely delicious. Dog friendly

What to visit:

• Mirehouse Estate: Wander through historic “Poetry Walks” and lush gardens that lead from a 17th-century manor straight to the tranquil lakeshore. Try to go around June time when the rhododendron trees are in full bloom. I have stunning photos of them. Dog friendly
• Keswick Pencil Museum: Discover the quirky history of the humble pencil, home to one of the world’s largest colour collections and a secret WWII spy pencil. Dog friendly
• The puzzling place: Step into a mind-bending world of optical illusions, featuring an anti-gravity room, hologram gallery, and hilarious photo opportunities.
• Lake District Wildlife Park: Meet over 100 species of exotic animals, catch live birds of prey displays, and enjoy an indoor soft play area beneath the Skiddaw massif.

Where to walk:

• Keswick old railway line: Follow the historic tracks of the old railway line on an easy, all-access path that weaves through tunnels and across restored Victorian bridges over the River Greta. Dog friendly
• Cat Bells: Climb one of the Lake District’s most loved fells for a short but thrilling ridge walk with spectacular panoramic views. Dog friendly
• Walla Crag or Walla Crag with Blueberry Fell and Ashness Bridge: Challenge yourself to a higher ridge hike passing a postcard-perfect packhorse bridge and expansive views across Derwentwater. Dog friendly
• Latrigg: Take a short, gentle stroll up Keswick’s favourite viewpoint to enjoy rewarding rewards of the town and lake below with minimal effort. Dog friendly

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Final Thoughts

Download & Go!

Download the free PDF and GPX of the walk here

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