For those seeking a quiet winter escape in family with their dog, Charente, in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France is a perfect destination. This region, between Bordeaux and Angoulême, is a hidden gem for slow-travel enthusiasts and families alike. From the historic 16th-century architecture of Chalais to the cobbled streets of Aubeterre-sur-Dronne the area is rich with heritage. It offers to winter visitors monolithic wonders, atmospheric riverside paths along the Tude, and peaceful nature walks.

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Content:

1. Introduction:
2. Explore the area:
   1. Visiting Chalais: History and Family Activities
   2. Aubeterre sur Dronne: Exploring France’s Most Beautiful Village
   3. Etang des belettes, Rioux-Martin
3. Travel tips:
4. Final Thoughts
   1. Join the Conversation
   2. Stay Updated

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Introduction:

After a festive Christmas with Matt’s family, we headed south to visit my family. We started by spending a few days with my dad and step-mother in the South West of France. There is something incredibly grounding about returning to the place where I grew up — seeing the subtle shifts in the landscape and the town over the years is always a interesting for me. The winter weather was kind to us, allowing for some refreshing crisp walks during our time there. We spent time wandering near the Abbaye de Flaran, one of the best-preserved Cistercian abbeys in the region. We also caught some fresh air by the Écluse de Graziac, a picturesque double-lock on the Baïse river that felt peaceful and still in the off-season. 

Read more about these walks and my home county here.

On the morning of the 31st of December, we said our goodbyes to my dad’s family and drove north to meet with my mum at our next destination. Since my mum and most of my family live / used to live in the Pyrenees, that region has always been our personal playground. For this trip, however, we wanted to break our routine and find a “middle ground” on the route toward Nantes. We looked for a destination none of us had explored before — somewhere that would give my mum the true feeling of being away on holiday. After some research, I found a house in Chalais through Home Exchange website. We traded guest points for this house that turned out to be a paradise for our son, Marcus; it was packed with Japanese manga, board games, and toys.

Read more about a beautiful walk in the Pyrenees mountains.

The weather turned properly wintry during our four-day stay, with temperatures dropping below freezing and a thick, atmospheric mist settled over the hills. It was the perfect excuse to embrace cocooning—we spent our afternoons huddled together, discussing life and playing games in the warmth of the house. Despite the cold, we managed to explore the local area every day. In particular the villages of Chalais and Aubeterre sur Dronne and to do a walk around the Etang des belettes.

Read more about our experience using Home Exchange website for the past 3 years.

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Explore the area:

Visiting Chalais: History and Family Activities

Located at the crossroads of the Périgord and Aquitaine regions, Chalais is a picturesque village in south Charente dominated by its 16th-century château. One sunny but crisp afternoon, while Marcus was napping, my mum, our dog Skye, and I set out to explore the town on foot. We wandered up the main streets, passing charming independent shops before heading toward the castle. Standing at the entrance, we were treated to an expansive, open view of the surrounding moorland glowing in the winter light. Since we had Skye with us, we skipped the visit of the interior of the castle and instead headed down to explore the other side of town, stopping at two different boîtes à livres (book-sharing boxes) along the way.

On another afternoon, we took Marcus to the outdoor playground located right near the banks of the Tude River. It is a fantastic spot for children, featuring a “mini road” system complete with traffic signs to teach kids road safety. Marcus absolutely loved it, and the adjacent riverside path is perfect for anyone looking to stretch their legs or enjoy a peaceful dog walk along the water.

Note: The children playground is located along the Tude river, by the aire de campervan, rue des Vergnons

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Aubeterre sur Dronne: Exploring France’s Most Beautiful Village

Often called one of the most beautiful villages in France, Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a stunning hillside town that feels like a natural amphitheater overlooking the Dronne River. On the morning of the 1st of January, we set out to explore this gem on foot. Having a toddler meant we were tucked in bed early on New Year’s Eve, which gave us the perfect opportunity to wander while everyone else was resting from their festivities.

The morning was biting cold, but the countryside was blanketed in a thin layer of frost, creating a truly magical atmosphere. We arrived at 10 am and found the usually bustling car park on the outskirts of town completely empty. Wrapped in extra layers, we followed the footpath up to the top of the town via the Chemin des Douves. From there, we meandered down toward the famous Monolithic Church of Saint-Jean. This is an extraordinary subterranean cathedral carved entirely out of the limestone cliff. It is one of the tallest of its kind in the world, with a nave reaching 20 meters high and an eerie necropolis containing over 80 stone sarcophagi.

Although the church was closed for the holiday, we continued our descent until we reached the D17 road, before tackling the steep climb back up through the quiet, winding streets to reach the Romanesque Church of Saint-Jacques. By the time we headed back to the car, it was nearly lunch, yet we still hadn’t encountered a single soul. Discovering the town’s stunning churches and cobbled streets in such serene solitude was a highlight of our trip. While I suspect it gets overcrowded in the warmer months, seeing its beauty under a winter frost is an experience I’d highly recommend.

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Etang des belettes, Rioux-Martin

Our final adventure in this corner of Charente was a crisp morning walk around the Étang des Belettes, located near the quiet village of Rioux-Martin. It was yet another freezing start to the day, with a heavy frost coating the trees and bushes in a delicate white layer.

We parked in the small designated car park and set off for a leisurely stroll around the water. This is a perfect family route— short, flat, and very easy to navigate. Since we had the place entirely to ourselves, we were able to let Skye run off-lead, which he loved. It was incredibly peaceful to breathe in the sharp, fresh winter air and listen to the birdsong echoing across the frozen landscape.

Find our walk description in Visorando website and a longer walk here.

After four days of slow living in Chalais, we continued our journey north to join Matt’s parents near Nantes before finally catching the ferry back to the UK. It was the perfect way to end 2025 and start 2026 — reconnecting with family, discovering new corners of the French countryside, and enjoying the quiet beauty of a winter landscape.

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Travel tips:

If you are interested in exploring this area of Charente you can find more information in the following websites:

• Chalais
• Aubeterre sur Dronne

Additionally, Bordeaux and Angoulême are easily accessible by train from Chalais and you could plan a day trip.

Finally, for the avid readers, you can find the location of all the boîtes à livres in France in this website. I wish we had a similar thing in UK.

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Final Thoughts

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