Tucked away in the rugged borderlands of County Durham and North Yorkshire, the area around Barnard Castle is a hidden gem for families and their four-legged companions. This is a landscape where history isn’t behind a velvet rope —it’s meant to be climbed, sniffed, and discovered. From the massive stone keep of Bowes Castle to the atmospheric “wynds” of Richmond, this corner of the Pennines offers deep historical roots with a wonderfully slow pace of life.
Whether you’re hand-trailing 12th-century walls, chasing “secret” waterfalls at Mill Force with the dog, or tucking into a world-class gastro-pub dinner while the kids enjoy a smaller taste of the local menu, this 3-day itinerary proves why Teesdale is England’s best-kept secret for a dog-friendly family adventure.
In this guide:
- Introduction
- Explore the area – Castles, Cobbles, and Countryside
- Travel Tips:
- Extend Your Adventure: Make a Holiday of It
- Final Thoughts
Introduction
This year for Matt’s birthday mid-February, we traded the daily grind for the timeless charm of County Durham. We’d driven past the silhouette of Barnard Castle countless times, always promising to stop, so we finally booked a little cottage on Airbnb right by the River Tees. Tucked against the castle’s fortified walls, it was the perfect base for a long weekend of history, misty riverside walks, and slow-paced exploration.
Explore the area – Castles, Cobbles, and Countryside
Day 1: Ruins and Riverside Revelry
Our journey east along the A66 felt like a transition into another era. With no rush to cover the 90-minute drive, we leaned into “slow mode.”
Brough Castle & St Mary’s Church
Our first stop was Brough, where the ruins of a 12th-century castle stand on the site of an old Roman fort. After parking our car at the little car park, we walked toward St Mary Church. Even though the church was closed, the graveyard was open and it welcomed us with a sea of early daffodils—a bright contrast to the moody stone. We then went to explore the ruins of Brough castle. Slightly shivering in the biting wind, we still managed to admire the view of the snow-capped North Pennines summits.
Bowes Castle & Mill Force waterfall
Driving just a few miles further, we pulled up in the village of Bowes to explore its namesake castle. The ruins are dominated by a massive, solitary keep, built in the 1170s by King Henry II. It was actually constructed within the perimeter of an even older Roman fort called Lauatris, and you can still see the Roman earthworks surrounding the medieval stone.
After taking in the expansive views from the ruins, we set off on a gentle circular walk through the quiet fields. The path led us through a mix of wooded trails and riverside tracks down to Mill Force. The waterfall felt like a genuine secret; tucked away from the road, it was just us, the rushing water, and a very indifferent flock of sheep.
On the loop back, we took a moment to admire the traditional stone houses that give the village its rugged, timeless character. It was a perfectly peaceful way to wrap up the day before heading to our accommodation.
A Gastronomic Find: The Rose and Crown
After a quick shower and a frantic luggage drop-off at our accommodation, we headed back out for our 6 pm reservation at the Rose and Crown. We’d seen great reviews on Google, but we weren’t quite sure what to expect; what we found was a spot that feels like a warm hug after a cold day.
While the main bar was buzzing and busy, we were tucked away in a quieter side area right by a roaring fire. Though it looks like a traditional pub, the atmosphere is incredibly friendly and the menu is pure gastronomic fine dining. I opted for the beautifully cooked halibut, while Matt went for the venison. Even without a dedicated kids’ menu, they looked after little Marcus perfectly by serving smaller portions of the main starters—he happily tucked into smoked salmon and hummus with breadsticks.
To finish, Marcus and I shared a lemon tart with chocolate ice cream that was the perfect end to a delicious, “just right” meal. It was a wonderful culinary adventure and the perfect birthday toast to Matt—definitely a lucky find!
Day 2: The Magic of ‘Barney’
With the sun out and Skye ready for his morning stretch, we bundled up in warm clothes to explore Barnard Castle, or “Barney” as the locals call it. This quintessential market town grew around the formidable ruins of its namesake castle, which was founded in the 12th century by the Balliol family (who also famously founded Balliol College, Oxford).
We spent a lovely morning crossing the majestic stone bridge —a 16th-century structure that spans the River Tees— and wandering the bustling high street. The town is a treasure trove of independent shops; we roamed past butchers, bakers, and even a specialist cheesemonger. After picking up some local meat for lunch, we took the “long way” back, hand-trailing the massive medieval castle walls and following the curve of the river until we reached the footbridge near our accommodation.
After Marcus’s nap, the afternoon rain rolled in, so we opted for a moody road trip toward the reservoirs of Grassholme. The roads were narrow, potholed, and shared with unimpressed free-roaming sheep, but the sense of isolation in the wilderness was beautiful. This massive Victorian-engineered feat, finished just over a century ago, felt incredibly atmospheric under the grey skies. We felt truly “lost” in the wilderness before looping back through Middleton-in-Teesdale, once the 19th-century headquarters for the London Lead Company, which shaped much of the town’s unique architecture.
As the rain tapered off, we re-entered Barney from the other side and enjoyed one last riverside walk, finding a great playground for Marcus before heading home for a quiet dinner.
Day 3: Yorkshire Borders & Abbey Echoes
On Saturday, we hopped over the border into North Yorkshire to spend the day in Richmond. Founded by the Normans in 1071, the town’s name literally means “strong hill,” and you can feel that history in every steep narrow lane and cobbled corner.
The Spirit of Richmond
Market day was in full swing, and the massive cobbled square—one of the largest in England—was humming with activity. We took a spectacular circular walk that hugs the Castle cliffs; the path overhangs the River Swale, which is one of the fastest-flowing rivers in England. Looking down from the base of the massive 12th-century keep, we had stunning views of the “castle rock” and the rushing water below.
Then, we drove down to the riverside to admire the gorgeous waterfalls and got a real treat: a local fire brigade was practicing water rescues in the river! It was a thrilling highlight for Marcus, and we stayed for a while to observe their manoeuvres.
Richmond has such a vibrant, welcoming energy, filled with independent shops and restaurants that we only just scratched its surface.
Egglestone Abbey
On the drive back to Barnard Castle, we stopped at Egglestone Abbey. Founded around 1190 for the “White Canons,” these English Heritage ruins are now a peaceful playground for the imagination. We spent an hour playing hide-and-seek among the weathered walls and broken arches before heading back for a well-deserved nap.
In the afternoon, we headed back into the centre of “Barney” for a final holiday pint at the pub followed with an Indian takeaway at our accommodation.
Day 4: The Quiet Journey Home
On Sunday morning, we packed up our belongings and prepared for the journey home. I had originally planned one last scenic stop to stretch our legs around Penrith, but Marcus had other ideas — he was fast asleep before we had even cleared the town limits of Barnard Castle.
He didn’t wake up once until we pulled into our own driveway; I guess three days of adventures is enough to tire out even the most energetic little explorer.
This corner of England—with its crisp air, deep history, and towns that still feel truly authentic—is definitely worth a visit. From the Roman roots of Bowes to the bustling medieval marketplace of Richmond, it’s a landscape that stays with its visitors. If you love the blend of wild nature and ancient stone, this area is great for you.
Travel Tips:
To help you make the most of your Teesdale and North Yorkshire adventure, here is our curated list of tried-and-tested spots.
The kids’ corner: Best Playgrounds & Treats
Keeping little explorers happy is easy with these fantastic stops. We found several gems that offer a perfect mix of history for the adults and play for the kids:
- Brough Castle: A double win! Enjoy a scoop of local artisan ice cream from the tea room while the kids hit the outdoor playground right next to the castle ruins. (Note: Tea room typically closed in winter months). 📍 Find it: Church Brough, CA17 4EJ
- Barnard Castle (The Town): You’re spoilt for choice here with two lovely spots:
- The Castle View: A charming park located directly opposite the castle entrance.
📍 Find it: 1 Vere Rd, DL12 8AD - The Riverside Park: A larger, modern playground conveniently located near the free parking area.
📍 Find it: 13 Old School Cl, DL12 8PS
- The Castle View: A charming park located directly opposite the castle entrance.
- Richmond Falls: Combine a stunning view of the River Swale waterfalls with a play session. The playground is located just across from the riverside parking. 📍 Find it: 7 Riverside Rd, DL10 4JR (Pay & Display parking)
The Adults’ Corner: Heritage & Gastronomy
For the history buffs and foodies, these sites are the backbone of the region’s heritage. Good to know: All these sites are dog-friendly, though entry fees apply for the interiors of Barnard and Richmond Castles.
Explore the history:
- Brough castle website – A Roman fort turned medieval fortress.
- Bowes castle website – A massive, solitary Norman keep.
- Barnard castle website – The fortress that gave the town its name.
- Richmond castle website – One of the finest Norman castles in Britain.
- Egglestone Abbey website – Atmospheric ruins of a 12th-century monastery.
Where to eat:
- Rose and Crown at Romaldkirk – A “warm hug” of a pub. Think gastronomic fine dining (the halibut and venison are must-tries) in a cosy, traditional setting.
- Babul’s Indian food restaurant at Barnard Castle – For an incredible Indian feast, this is a local favourite. Perfect for a celebratory takeaway or a vibrant sit-down meal.
Extend Your Adventure: Make a Holiday of It
If you have a few extra days, the area surrounding Barnard Castle is the perfect base for exploring the wider North East and the Pennines. From dramatic waterfalls to Roman ruins and ancient forests, here are our favourite tried-and-tested spots to add to your itinerary:
- Hadrian’s Wall (35 miles from Barnard Castle): Just a short drive north brings you to this iconic Roman frontier. Sections like Steel Rigg or Housesteads Roman Fort offer breathtaking hikes through some of the most significant history in Britain.
- High Force Waterfall (12 miles from Barnard Castle): One of England’s most impressive waterfalls, where the River Tees spectacular drops 21 metres into a plunge pool. A well-maintained woodland trail makes it a great walk for the whole family.
- Hamsterley Forest (12 miles from Barnard Castle): A 2,000-hectare oasis perfect for dog walking and adventure. It features a Gruffalo trail for the kids and some of the best mountain biking tracks in the North.
- Durham City (25 miles from Barnard Castle): Home to a stunning UNESCO World Heritage site, the Romanesque Cathedral and Norman Castle tower over the winding River Wear. Don’t miss a stroll through its medieval cobbled streets.
- The Durham Coast (35 miles from Barnard Castle): For a change of scenery, head to the rugged coastline. The Durham Coastal Path offers dramatic clifftop views and hidden beaches, perfect for a bracing walk with the dog.
- Lambley Viaduct (34 miles from Barnard Castle): A hidden architectural gem that crosses the River South Tyne. Walking across this massive Victorian structure offers incredible canopy-level views of the surrounding woodland.
Final Thoughts
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